DIY Angels and Demons tour in Rome

Okay so I’m a bit of a nerd and as fan of the book/film Angels and Demons, I really wanted to see all the sites from it. I looked around online and there are tours, but we were quite pressed for time only being in Rome for a few nights and they’re a bit pricey considering most of the sites are churches. So I figured why not pretend to be Robert Langdon properly and find the Illuminati’s altars of science myself!

So I did a bit of research before we went to find out where the different places were and, rather than doing one big tour, we slotted parts of it in here and there when we were in that area to see something else. It was good fun and it also meant we saw bits of Rome we probably wouldn’t have come across otherwise!

So here are some tips and info to help you do the same:

• Earth

The Chigi Chapel is above the underground crypt that represents the element of earth and I was excited to see the manhole cover and the angels around it pointing us along our “lofty quest” – I’m sad I know. It’s in the Santa Maria del Popolo church, which is about a 10 minute walk from the Spanish Steps and Castel Saint Angelo so if you’re going to either of those places it’s not far out of your way. It’s at the rear of Piazza del Popolo which is an absolutely beautiful square with a series of linked fountains cascading down the hill – it’s worth a visit in its own right. We grabbed some takeaway pasta and sat on the steps of the twin churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli to eat it before popping into the church, it was lush!

• Fire

Fire is represented by the Bernini sculpture The Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, which is great to see even if you aren’t interested in the film. It’s in the Cornaro Chapel in the church Santa Maria Della Vittoria. This was easy for us to wander down to as it’s about a 5-10min walk from Termini train station, which we staying near to. But it’s also close to Piazza della Repubblica, which is surrounded by grand buildings with a massive fountain in the middle (Rome style and full of statues of course) and definitely worth a stop. Bear in mind with the church that it only has opening hours of 8.30am-12 and 3.30-6pm Monday to Saturday, and only the afternoon times for Sundays.

• Air

This was easy for us to slot in as it’s in St Peter’s Square in the Vatican, which we were going to for a tour anyway. We couldn’t get close to the obelisk in the centre as there were chairs surrounding it that were sectioned off, but I could just about see the circular sculptures built into the floor around it and the face that’s blowing out air. St Peter’s and the Vatican is a must see though, it’s breathtaking – read my Vatican tour review.

• Water

Water is represented by Bernini’s famous Four Rivers fountain in the middle of Piazza Navona, which is just round the corner from the Pantheon. The Piazza is lush and worth a visit in its own right too though with its surrounding cafes, gelato bars, and restaurants and market traders around the square. It’s a perfect snapshot of Italy and lovely to take a time out in!

• Church of Illuminati

This is basically just Castel Saint Angelo, which is worth putting on your list of stuff to see in Rome anyway. Who doesn’t love a good castle! Look out for the long wall that runs fom the castle to the Vatican which features in the film.

One final word of advice: If like me you’re not even slightly religious, don’t dismiss visiting churches. In Rome they’re covered in detailed arrtwork and scupltures and most are seriously impressive!